Cleaning and Oiling a Swiss Watch Movement

The majority of modern watches in water-resistant cases will only require the movement’s parts to be degreased. This means washing off the old oil so that fresh oil can be applied. Many ‘old school’ watchmakers used benzene or pure Naphtha. In the modern age, both of these have been found to be bad for your health if inhaled.

You will quite often see watch repairers using lighter fuel as a modern replacement, as this still contains Naphtha. However, many watchmakers are blissfully unaware that modern lighter fuel is contaminated with a small amount of oil, making lighter fuel a very poor degreaser. Very small particles of oil will be left on any part that you try and clean when using this substance.

If you apply oil to the surface of anything that has been washed in lighter fuel, the oil will have spread by the next day. The only thing that lighter fuel is good for is cleaning mainsprings, and even then only when the fuel is applied to a lint-free cloth and used to wipe the spring clean.

Don’t be fooled into thinking that washing watch parts in degreaser is a quicker way of cleaning a watch. You would … Continue reading...

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Hamilton Grade 992B Technical Bulletin Infomation

Ten years of direct research, and nearly fifty years expirience in manufacturing high-grade watches exclusively have gone into the design and construction of the Hamilton 992B Railway Special – America’s finest and most accurate railroad watch.

This is a completely new movement from winding arbor to balance wheel, and its parts are not interchangeable with those of previous 992’s.

992B is a 16 size, lever set movement with 21 friction set ruby and sapphire jewels. It is adjusted to temperature and six positions. All parts – with exception of the hairspring – are perfectly interchangeable. In addition to major technical advances (fully described in this data sheet) other changes have greatly simplifield the problems of cleaning, repairing and adjusting.

Winding and setting mechanism has been designed for increased strenght and ease of handling. The shipper lever is held in position by a screw that comes through the pillar plate from the back of the movement and is threaded into the lever. This screw is blue for indetification and need not be loosened or removed before taking the movement from the case. The winding wheel is mounted on a steel shaft and is held in position by a screw with a … Continue reading...

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Removing and Replacing the Hamilton Floating Stud

The Hamilton floating stud principle for adjusted watches, adopted many years ago makes possible hairsping replacing without recentering and relevling.

To remove the balance and hairsping, unscrew the two stud cap screws (s) just enough to release the stud before unscrewling the cock screw. (If the watch is to be washed, remove these two screws entirely). Do not pick the stud out from under the cap  as this will pit a short kink in the hairspring at the regulator pins, and cause bad regulation when replaced. Lift the balance cock up and away from the movement so that the balance will not catch on the center wheel adn stretch the hairspring. The balance is now suspended by the hairspring. By tilting the cock toward the stud side, the stud will fall out.

When the hairspring has been staked on the balance staff in the proper location, and the balance and hairspring are ready to be replaced in the watch, pick up the balance by the arm or rim, placing the balance with the jewel pin in the slot of the fork. Move the balance around so that the stud is within the ark A B (as indicated in Figure I) … Continue reading...

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What is Seiko Diashock protection ?

Diashock (shock resistant device) is installed in every SEIKO watch.
It protects the balance staff against even repeated and violent impacts and helps make every SEIKO watch a highly accurate timepiece.

Salient features of Diashock include

  1. dynamic stability,
  2. high resistance to shock,
  3. improved oil retention,
  4. wide interchangeability, making for easy service


The spring is easily removed by turning it gently with tweezers.


Set the spring gradually into a Diashock frame by fitting and turning its three hooks one by one into the notch of the frame.


After cleaning of applying Epilame treatment, cover the cap jewel and hole jewel with frame from the right above after oiling the cap jewel. Apply oil so that the quantity spreads over a maximum of one-half to a minimum of one-third of the hole jewel diameter, in the condition of setting the cap jewel, and hole jewel with frame. (Moebius Synt-A-Lube)

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Watch Your Watch

Mechanical watches are not only by and large more expensive and complex than quartzes, they are also a little high-maintenance, as it were. The mechanism within does need servicing occasionally – perhaps a touch of oil and an adjustment. Worse yet, the complexity of all those wheels and pinions engaged in reproducing the galaxy means that a user will occasionally do something perfectly harmless like wind his or her watch up only to find everything grinding to a halt. Here are some tips for dealing with these mechanical beauties for new watch owners and reminders for the old hands.

1. Date Changes
Do not change the date manually (via the crown or pusher) on any mechanical watch – whether manual wind or automatic – when the time indicated on the dial reads between 10 and 2 o’clock. Although some better watches are protected against this horological quirk, most mechanical watches with a date indicator are engaged in the process of automatically changing the date between the hours of 10 p.m. and 2 am. Intervening with a forced manual change while the automatic date shift is engaged can damage the movement. Of course, you can make the adjustment between 10 a.m. … Continue reading...

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Servicing Hamilton Grade 694 Calendar

Disassembly of Calendar Mechanism
Remove minute work cock by taking out the two small screws. (The large screw holds the setting cap spring in place).
Take off the date jumper guard but exercise caution to prevent the date jumper and spring from becoming lost. Remove the date jumper and spring.
Lift the intermediate date wheel with its small plate as an assembly. Turn the date indicator driving wheel cap with tweezers so that either one of the two notches lines up with a tooth of the date indicator.
Remove the date indicator by gently lifting with tweezers near the setting stem.
Turn the date indicator wheel, if necessary, so that the finger or cam is pointing away from the headed post “A” which holds the slide in position.
Grasp slide at point shown by arrow and pull toward driving wheel (same direction as arrow). Lift gently and complete assembly can be removed. Slide and wheel or gear may be parted for cleaning. Remove the slide spring.

Use Hamilton PML grease at points shown by arrows.
Minute wheel and setting wheel posts.
Date indicator driving wheel post.
Intermediate date wheel post.
Slide guiding headed post.
Indexing finger (visible thru opening … Continue reading...

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Restoration on Vintage Watches

When you find a vintage watch worthy of restoration, you must consider all of what that entails. Let us say that you discover a wristwatch in 4 grade (average) condition, with a badly discolored dial. To restore the dial or not to restore the dial, that is the question.
Generally speaking, a dial has to be fairly well gone before i refinish it. Collectors always prefer a watch with an original dial. However, if it is just plain ugly, then get it refinished. Sometimes it is a tough call and a lot of the decision rests with what you plan to do with the watch after restoration. If you enjoy the look of the watch and plan to wear it, then getting the dial redone is a question of personal preference. If you obtained the watch with the desire to resell it, then you might consider cleaning up the case, crystal and movement, but leave the decision to restore the dial to the next owner. However, if the dial is too ugly, there might not be a next owner anytime soon.
You must be careful and examine the dial closely to see if it will stand up to a light … Continue reading...

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