LVMH Watch Week Dubai All Eyes on the Octo

The Italian “Jeweler of time” started the watchmaking year ahead of Baselworld with several strong new releases. Watch Time traveled do Dubai for a first look.

– LVMH’s inaugural Watch Week took place from January 13 to 15 at the Dubai Bulgari Hotel. While the brand will still release a majority of its 2020 novelties in Basel (April 30 to May 5), the watches shown on the Persian Gulf coast are already another strong commitment of the brand to horological innovation, with the Octo Finissimo Automatic in stainless steel being one of the year’s highlights (and undoubtedly also the most requested version of the record-breaker). Here are some of the novelties that were shown.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater in Sandblasted Rose Gold – The most elegant interpretation of the record-breaking watch from 2016 yet. The new Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater in rose gold (Ref.103279) is the latest edition of the record-breaking Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater in titanium that first debuted in 2016 and led the foundation for a new approach to mechanics and complications. The minute repeater, one of the most complex of all horological complications, now comes in sand-blasted rose gold with matching dial. The hour markers and … Continue reading...

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How the escapement functions

When energy is stored in the mainspring, by winding, the train wheels begin to turn. This energy is carried from the barrel through the center,  third and fourth wheels to the escape wheel, turning the escape wheel in the direction of the arrow shown in Fig. 1.

Considering the escapement as a unit, it can be seen that the escape wheel supplies the power, whereas the pallet transfers the rotary motion of the escape wheel into a back and forth motion of the pallet. The pallet in turn imparts motion to the jewel pin (roller jewel) which causes a vibrating motion of the balance wheel.

Detailed sequence of escapement actions

As the balance wheel swings, the jewel pin is carried back and forth across the center line of the escape wheel, pallet and balance wheel. Line AB in Fig. 2A.

                                                                                                                                           As the jewel pin approaches the center line and when in the position shown in Fig.2A, it enters and strikes the inside wall of the fork slot. During the passage of the jewel pin over the center line, the fork is moved in the direction of the arrow (fig.2B), causing the R pallet stone to unlock an escape wheel tooth.… Continue reading...

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The birth of a classic

To all watch aficionados and admirers of Patek Philippe, this is a reference you will want to remember: Chronograph  Ref. 5170J. It is the ultimate chronograph from the Geneva manufacture, equipped with the very recent movement, the Calibre CH 29-35-535 PS, totally developed and produced in-house by Patek Philippe. A manual-winding, column-wheel chronograph, this new reference replaces the very famous chronograph Ref.5070, based on a Lemania caliber, and well know to all collectors.

The latest in a prestigious line – With this new and remarkable creation, Patek Philippe completes the collection of its own chronographs, a collection that was started in 2005 with the introduction of the thinnest (5.25mm) flyback manual chronograph movement ever made. It was also the first chronograph wristwatch entirely designed, developed and fabricated in-house. Produced in the traditional manner in a limited quantity in the haute horlogerie ateliers at Patek Philippe, this very prestigious movement- with its two column wheels, two push-pieces, the possibility to store reference times, as well as its many other technical and aesthetic features- created a sensation from its first introduction in a series of ten pieces in an Officer style platinum case, the already famous Reference 5959P.

This offer was expanded … Continue reading...

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The Chronograph, an expression of modern times

The chronograph, an ingenious invention of modern times, has taken the measure of human progress for nearly two centuries. The etymology of the word comes from the combination of two Greek roots: chromos (time) and grapho (writing). To write time is also to write a record of the history of the world.

The scientific advances of the end of the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries, notably in astronomy, medicine, engineering  and industry, necessitated the measuring of fractions of seconds. In this field, as in others, there were numerous inventors and solutions.  Following unfruitful attempts by John Arnold, Louis Moinet  (1768-1853), a Parisian watchmaker who was also a keen astronomer, invented an instrument that measured sixtieths of a second, which he called a compteur de tierces (“counter of thirds”) . The “third” refers to the third subdivision of the hour on a basis of 60 after the minute and the second, and is used in astronomy.

This counter was produced in collaboration witch a watchmaker from the workshop of Abraham. Louis Breguet in 1815-1816. In terms of its performance, ergonomics and the readability of its dial, this instrument prefigures the chronometric devices to one-fiftieth and one-hundredth of a second created by … Continue reading...

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The Rolex GMT Master Short Info

The Rolex GMT Master has the normal second, minute and hour hands and the date, and in addition a revolving bezel, calibrated into 24 hours and a red 24 hour hand.

Consequently it may be used to tell the exact time at any two places on the earth at once.

The red 24 hour hand revolves once around the dial every 24 hours and is directly connected to the normal hour and minute hands and moves with them, either during the normal runningof the watch or when the hands are being set.

The G.M.T. Master is easy to read if it is remembered that the normal hour hand is read on the dial and the red 24 hour hand is read on the revolving bezel outside the dial.

Suppose it is 2 o’clock in the afternoon in London and it is required to set the GMT Master to show London time and date and New York time. The London time and date are set first, using the normal hands, as described under “Setting to the second” and “Setting the date”.

When this has been done and with the 24 hour position triangle of the revolving bezel in a position corresponding … Continue reading...

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